Hail to the King Army of Darkness T-Shirt . For the , I will do this “Afro-billy,” Jawara plaits three braids at Ross’s temples. To add extra volume to the updo, he cuts a hair donut in half, then partly unrolls it to create the shape of his pleasing. He bobby pins the padding to Ross’s hair and coifs her curls around it, creating a sort of crown while leaving some pieces loose for a hint of texture. “I definitely have seen some change in the fashion industry as opposed to when I first started. I remember being backstage and no one being able to work on textured, Black hair,” Jawara reflects. “There are a lot who still don’t know, but I do feel like there are people who are making a real effort to figure out.” Ross notes the “new appreciation for authenticity” versus fetishization, though she adds that there are still few stylists who “can do Black hair and know how to do it with variation, possibility, and creativity.” She cites the “remnants of respectability politics” as one aspect that affects which Black styles are appropriate or accessible. “For Black women there is so much connected to our hair. It’s such a sacred thing, particularly if you’re someone who wears wigs or weaves. That relationship between you and your stylist is so personal,” she says. Moving onto finishing touches, Jawara sets everything in place with a bit of hairspray and edge control. And though her hair is nearly finished, Ross’s beauty transformation is not. “When we are done I’m going to put on a gorgeous pink dress to go with this, and a lip. When your hair looks epic, you need a lip.”
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It is clear that this take on a classic bouffant has energized Ross, who is eager to show off her favorite part, Jawara’s braid detail Hail to the King Army of Darkness T-Shirt . Her conclusion? “This is beyond great. I think this is what you’d call extraordinary.” “I remember the , I will do this moment very clearly,” Dries Van Noten tells me over Zoom from his Antwerp office, painting a vivid picture of his garden just outside the city a few summers ago. A designer beloved for fashion that marries romance with a certain Northern rigor—beauty and brains—Van Noten was leading a group of 10 hand-picked perfumers on a tour of his 55-acre grounds, and they had stopped to examine a peculiar scene: Next to what Van Noten considers to be “one of the most beautiful roses”—the velvety, dark burgundy Munstead Wood from David Austin—was a nearly neon pink varietal that he gleefully describes as “not really very tasteful.” The perfumers were struck by the juxtaposition. “They asked me why my rose garden didn’t look like any other rose garden,” he says, flashing a half smile, the Belgian equivalent of a full, toothy grin.
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